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Professional Air Soap Cutter System

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General Information - Cutters & Molds & Mold Liners

Professional Manual Soap Cutter System

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FAQ - Professional Air Soap Cutter™ System

Air Soap Cutter™

Shown with Optional Stand and Model ACM1C Soap Mold

Question:

What is the difference between the Soap Cutter with a loaf grid and the Soap Cutter with a bar grid?

Answer:

They are one and the same soap cutter. You get two cutting frames with your Air Soap Cutter™, a Loaf and a Bar cutting frame.

*The Loaf Grid cuts the face of the bar or width and length.

*The Bar Grid cuts the thickness.

Question:

Does the Air Soap Cutter™ cut in logs and bars or only one type?

Answer:

They both will cut loaves and bars. If you wish, you can also order extra grids for other loaf sizes or bar sizes, such as sample and hotel bar sizes.

Question:

I recently received your Air Soap Cutter™ and Soap Molds. The base plate for the bar cutter appears to be bowed. It still fits on the pins but it has some rocking to it. Is this a problem?

Answer:

This will not affect your cutting. It is normal for the tables to bow some - no way around it. You will notice that we have scored the other side, to compensate for some of this bowing.

Question:

How many frames come with the Air Soap Cutter™?

Answer:

The Air Soap Cutter™ comes with two frames, a soap bar frame and a soap loaf frame.

Question:

I currently have a block grid cutter (a cheaper variety than the one you sell, made of wood and recycled plastic) and the wires break fairly often which is time consuming to replace, sometimes even ruining some of the soap in the process. I'm not sure the reason, but I need to know of the probability of this happening with your unit as well.

Answer:

I don't know the gauge or type of the wire you use. Ours is a special grade that as far as I know only one company in the World makes. We have sold over a thousand cutters over the course of 12 years and seldom need to send replacement wire to anyone.

Sometimes it is not the wire but the wire tying method. We designed our wire bolts to work with the particular wire we use and to pull the wire, straight on. They are also designed to allow tiny adjustments in the tension and to lock firmly in place.

When To Cut Your Soap

Question:

When should I cut my soap?

Answer:

Cutting Your Soap:

1. It is very important when using a wire cutter to cut the soap as soon as possible. Letting the soap cure and harden too long will result in breaking or stretching the wires.

2. At first, start checking Manual Cutter™ Molds after about 20 hours. They will usually be ready between 24 and 36 hours but this can vary greatly. Start checking Air Cutter™ Molds after about 36 hours. Again these are usually ready at about two to three days. Main thing here is observe and take notes on your first few pours. This will eliminate mistakes.

3. Smaller pours require less cure time. Many factors affect curing time. These range from, but are not restricted to; environmental surroundings, humidity, air temperature, insulation method and your soap recipe.

4. You may test your soap by pushing on the top center of the pour. If it is spongy, it is not ready. If it is firm, yet still soft, it is ready.

5. You can also test with a thermometer. Check in the center about mid-way down from the top. It should be ready when the temperature is below 90 degrees (F). After a while you will know by the look and feel of your pour.

Questions about wires.

Question:

I have a few questions about your wires. I have a cutter with guitar tuners and it keeps losing tension. I am not at all thrilled about this. I have to constantly, re-adjust the wire tension. Another problem is trying to turn the knobs, it is very hard to do when putting a lot of tension on the wire. What is your method? Is each wire, individually controlled with your cutters, and how are they tightened?

Right now, I think I use an 18 gauge wire and some of my harder bars are very hard to cut. After one or two cuts, I have to redo the tension on the wire.

Answer:

The problem with using a heavy wire and guitar tuners is that the tuner cannot handle the heavy wire. The end result is that it slips and loses tension. We machine our tension bolts to hold the wire so it does not slip. Our system pulls straight through. The wires do not wrap around the bolt. We make tens of thousands of these bolts every year and have found no better method. With that said, we are always looking for ways to improve.

Once it is tensioned a couple times, they should not need to be adjusted again. There should be little stretch left. Our wire is made to our specification, and is about half again the tensile strength of standard piano wire, in comparable gauges. We have customers who have gone several years before re-tensioning their wires. We try to get most of the stretch out of the wire before it leaves here.

As to individually tied wires, we loop some wires but they have tension bolts on each end. Each bolt essentially has one wire. If you want individual wires, we can do this for a small charge but it makes no difference in the performance of our system.

Adjustable cutter?

Question:

Do you make an adjustable cutter for different bar thicknesses?

Answer:

There would be no adjustable cutter worth its salt. If there were, we would have invented it a long time ago. You would end up having the exact same problem you are having now - constant problems tensioning wires. The wires can only take so much loosening and tensioning. To “Adjust” and move wires around for different bar thicknesses, that is what you would have to do….Loosen, Tension …. Loosen and tension - thus destroying the wire.