The Air Soap Cutter™ comes with two frames, a
soap bar frame and a soap loaf frame.
I currently have a
block grid cutter (a cheaper variety than the one you sell, made
of wood and recycled plastic) and the wires break fairly often
which is time consuming to replace, sometimes even ruining some
of the soap in the process. I'm not sure the reason, but I need
to know of the probability of this happening with your unit as
I don't know the gauge or type of the wire you
use. Ours is a special grade that as far as I know only one
company in the World makes. We have sold over a thousand cutters
over the course of 12 years and seldom need to send replacement
wire to anyone.
Sometimes it is not the wire but the wire tying method. We
designed our wire bolts to work with the particular wire we use
and to pull the wire, straight on. They are also designed to
allow tiny adjustments in the tension and to lock firmly in
When should I cut my
Cutting Your Soap:
1. It is very important when using a wire cutter
to cut the soap as soon as possible. Letting the soap cure and
harden too long will result in breaking or stretching the wires.
2. At first, start checking Manual Cutter™ Molds
after about 20 hours. They will usually be ready between 24 and
36 hours but this can vary greatly. Start checking Air Cutter™
Molds after about 36 hours. Again these are usually ready at
about two to three days. Main thing here is observe and take
notes on your first few pours. This will eliminate mistakes.
3. Smaller pours require less cure time. Many
factors affect curing time. These range from, but are not
restricted to; environmental surroundings, humidity, air
temperature, insulation method and your soap recipe.
4. You may test your soap by pushing on the top
center of the pour. If it is spongy, it is not ready. If it is
firm, yet still soft, it is ready.
5. You can also test with a thermometer. Check
in the center about mid-way down from the top. It should be
ready when the temperature is below 90 degrees (F). After a
while you will know by the look and feel of your pour.
I have a few
questions about your wires. I have a cutter with guitar tuners
and it keeps losing tension. I am not at all thrilled about
this. I have to constantly, re-adjust the wire tension. Another
problem is trying to turn the knobs, it is very hard to do when
putting a lot of tension on the wire. What is your method? Is
each wire, individually controlled with your cutters, and how
are they tightened?
Right now, I think I use an 18 gauge wire and
some of my harder bars are very hard to cut. After one or two
cuts, I have to redo the tension on the wire.
The problem with
using a heavy wire and guitar tuners is that the tuner cannot
handle the heavy wire. The end result is that it slips and loses
tension. We machine our tension bolts to hold the wire so it
does not slip. Our system pulls straight through. The wires do
not wrap around the bolt. We make tens of thousands of these
bolts every year and have found no better method. With that
said, we are always looking for ways to improve.
Once it is tensioned
a couple times, they should not need to be adjusted again. There
should be little stretch left. Our wire is made to our
specification, and is about half again the tensile strength of
standard piano wire, in comparable gauges. We have customers who
have gone several years before re-tensioning their wires. We try
to get most of the stretch out of the wire before it leaves
As to individually tied wires, we loop some
wires but they have tension bolts on each end. Each bolt
essentially has one wire. If you want individual wires, we can
do this for a small charge but it makes no difference in the
performance of our system.
Do you make an
adjustable cutter for different bar thicknesses?
There would be no adjustable cutter worth its
salt. If there were, we would have invented it a long time ago.
You would end up having the exact same problem you are having
now - constant problems tensioning wires. The wires can only
take so much loosening and tensioning. To “Adjust” and move
wires around for different bar thicknesses, that is what you
would have to do….Loosen, Tension …. Loosen and tension - thus
destroying the wire.
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