Bath Bomb Press (Maker)

Lip Balm and Pouring Trays

Shipping

Beginner Soap Makers Suggestions

Liquid Soap

Soap Making Tools and Accessories

Candle Wax Equipment

Loaf Soap Cutters™

Soap Making Questions

Custom Single Bar Mold, Shapes, Graphic Designs

Lye Tanks

Soap Molds & Liners

Drying Trays

Oil - Wax Tanks (Melters)

Soap Shaper

Financing

Pot Tippers & Pot Whippers

Soap Stampers

Formulation

Professional Air Soap Cutter™ System

Soapmaker Software

General Information - Cutters & Molds & Mold Liners

Professional Manual Soap Cutter™ System

Start Up Questions

General Questions

Pumps

Warranty

Hot Process Soap

Scales (General) - (Troubleshooting)

Question:

Does the Manual Cutter™ work with the small Professional Mold?

Answer:

Yes, this mold is made specifically for the Manual Soap Cutter™.

Question:

Can the size of the Manual Soap Cutter™ grid be made to fit the size of our soaps (3.5 x 1 x 2.4 inches)?

Answer:

Yes, matter of fact; the mold is also designed to fit your bar size for the least amount of waste and most efficient cut.

Diagram of the

Layout of loaves, in one cell of the

Manual Soap Cutter™ Mold

Click Image to Enlarge

Diagram of the

Layout of bars, , in one cell of the

Manual Soap Cutter™ Mold

Click Image to Enlarge

Question:

What is the difference between the Manual Soap Cutter™ with a loaf grid and the Manual Soap Cutter™ with a bar grid?

Answer:

They are one and the same Manual Soap Cutter™. You get two cutting frames with your Manual Soap Cutter™, a Loaf and a Bar cutting frame.

*The Loaf Grid cuts the face of the bar or width and length.

*The Bar Grid cuts the thickness.

Question:

Does the Manual Soap Cutter™ and Air Soap Cutter™ cut in logs and bars or only one type?

Answer:

They both will cut loaves and bars. If you wish, you can also order extra grids for other loaf sizes or bar sizes, such as sample and hotel bars.

Question:

I recently received your Manual Soap Cutter™ and Soap Molds. The base plate for the bar cutter appears to be bowed. It still fits on the pins but it has some rocking to it. Is this a problem?

Answer:

This will not affect your soap cutting. It is normal for the tables to bow some - no way around it. You will notice that we have scored the other side, to compensate for some of this bowing.

Question:

You mentioned that the air soap cutter mold is grooved on the bottom so that the cutter wires can pass all the way through the block. What happens with the Manual Soap Cutter™, where there is no groove? Are you left with a little uncut bit at the bottom of the stroke?

Answer:

The Manual Soap Cutter™ loaf table is grooved, the molds are not. The Air Soap Cutter™ mold bottoms is the cutting surface and it is a pretty automatic operation whereas you move the soap block on to the Manual Soap Cutter™ cutting table.

Question:

Does the bar cut frame cut one log at a time, or a bunch of logs?

Answer:

You can stack as many loaves as you can under the bar frame. It will cut them all at one time.

Question:

I have been very happy with the soap making equipment I purchased from you.  The only problem I’ve been having is that when I cut the bars, the middle rows of the cutter produce larger bars than the end rows.  Otherwise, they turn out very nice and I can make my soap much more efficiently.

Answer:

You should check your wires for centering. Flip the frame over and look at the wires. The bolts may have turned, allowing the wire to go off-center. (The wire groove on the Wire Bolt is on the side of the bolt). You may need to re-center your groove and wire then re-tighten the nuts on each side of the wire bars. The wire bars are drilled to precise centers so the only way for a wire to be off is for the bolt to have rotated a little.

Question:

Will the Manual Cutter™ cut soap from slab or tray molds?

Answer:

Yes but this is not the most efficient way to mold soap and does not give you the quality that a large block mold will.

There are some considerations to look at. The maximum dimension you can cut with a Manual Soap Cutter™ is 12" x 12" (30.3cm x 30.3cm). Some slab molds are larger than this, requiring them to be cut down. Another consideration is how many wires must pass through the slab. If you pour with your bars on end (longest dimension of bar, being the depth of pour) then you will probably have too many wires, with too much wire surface to push through easily.

Best thing to do, is to call or email us and we can assist you in finding the optimum solution.

Question:

I currently have a block grid cutter (a cheaper variety than the one you sell, made of wood and recycled plastic) and the wires break fairly often which is time consuming to replace, sometimes even ruining some of the soap in the process. I'm not sure the reason, but I need to know of the probability of this happening with your unit as well.

Answer:

I don't know the gauge or type of the wire you use. Ours is a special grade that as far as I know only one company in the World makes. We have sold over a thousand cutters over the course of 12 years and seldom need to send replacement wire to anyone.

Sometimes it is not the wire but the wire tying method. We designed our wire bolts to work with the particular wire we use and to pull the wire, straight on. They are also designed to allow tiny adjustments in the tension and to lock firmly in place.

When To Cut Your Soap

Question:

When should I cut my soap?

Answer:

Cutting Your Soap:

1. It is very important when using a wire cutter to cut the soap as soon as possible. Letting the soap cure and harden too long will result in breaking or stretching the wires.

2. At first, start checking Manual Cutter™ Molds after about 20 hours. They will usually be ready between 24 and 36 hours but this can vary greatly. Start checking Air Cutter™ Molds after about 36 hours. Again these are usually ready at about two to three days. Main thing here is observe and take notes on your first few pours. This will eliminate mistakes.

3. Smaller pours require less cure time. Many factors affect curing time. These range from, but are not restricted to; environmental surroundings, humidity, air temperature, insulation method and your soap recipe.

4. You may test your soap by pushing on the top center of the pour. If it is spongy, it is not ready. If it is firm, yet still soft, it is ready.

5. You can also test with a thermometer. Check in the center about mid-way down from the top. It should be ready when the temperature is below 90 degrees (F). After a while you will know by the look and feel of your pour.