They both will cut loaves and bars. If you wish,
you can also order extra grids for other loaf sizes or bar
sizes, such as sample and hotel bars.
Question:
I recently received
your Manual Soap Cutter and
Soap Molds. The base plate for the
bar cutter appears to be bowed. It still fits on the pins but it
has some rocking to it. Is this a problem?
Answer:
This will not affect your soap cutting. It is
normal for the tables to bow some - no way around it. You will
notice that we have scored the other side, to compensate for
some of this bowing.
Question:
You mentioned that
the air soap cutter mold is grooved on the bottom so that the
cutter wires can pass all the way through the block. What
happens with the Manual Soap Cutter, where there is no groove?
Are you left with a little uncut bit at the bottom of the
stroke?
Answer:
The Manual Soap Cutter loaf table is grooved, the
molds are not. The Air Soap Cutter mold bottoms is the cutting
surface and it is a pretty automatic operation whereas you move
the soap block on to the Manual Soap Cutter cutting table.
Question:
Does the bar cut
frame cut one log at a time, or a bunch of logs?
Answer:
You can stack as many loaves as you can under
the bar frame. It will cut them all at one time.
Question:
I have been very
happy with the soap making equipment I purchased from you.
The only problem I’ve been having is that when I cut the bars,
the middle rows of the cutter produce larger bars than the end
rows. Otherwise, they turn out very nice and I can make my
soap much more efficiently.
Answer:
You should check your wires for centering. Flip
the frame over and look at the wires. The bolts may have turned,
allowing the wire to go off-center. (The wire groove on the Wire
Bolt is on the side of the bolt). You may need to re-center your
groove and wire then re-tighten the nuts on each side of the
wire bars. The wire bars are drilled to precise centers so the
only way for a wire to be off is for the bolt to have rotated a
little.
Question:
Will the Manual
Cutter cut soap from slab or tray molds?
Answer:
Yes but this is not the most efficient way to
mold soap and does not give you the quality that a large block
mold will.
There are some considerations to look at. The
maximum dimension you can cut with a Manual Soap Cutter is 12" x 12"
(30.3cm x 30.3cm). Some slab molds are larger than this,
requiring them to be cut down. Another consideration is how many
wires must pass through the slab. If you pour with your bars on
end (longest dimension of bar, being the depth of pour) then you
will probably have too many wires, with too much wire surface to
push through easily.
Best thing to do, is to call or email us and we
can assist you in finding the optimum solution.
Question:
I currently have a
block grid cutter (a cheaper variety than the one you sell, made
of wood and recycled plastic) and the wires break fairly often
which is time consuming to replace, sometimes even ruining some
of the soap in the process. I'm not sure the reason, but I need
to know of the probability of this happening with your unit as
well.
Answer:
I don't know the gauge or type of the wire you
use. Ours is a special grade that as far as I know only one
company in the World makes. We have sold over a thousand cutters
over the course of 12 years and seldom need to send replacement
wire to anyone.
Sometimes it is not the wire but the wire tying method. We
designed our wire bolts to work with the particular wire we use
and to pull the wire, straight on. They are also designed to
allow tiny adjustments in the tension and to lock firmly in
place.
When To Cut Your Soap
Question:
When should I cut my
soap?
Answer:
Cutting Your Soap:
1. It is very important when using a wire cutter
to cut the soap as soon as possible. Letting the soap cure and
harden too long will result in breaking or stretching the wires.
2. At first, start checking Manual Cutter Molds
after about 20 hours. They will usually be ready between 24 and
36 hours but this can vary greatly. Start checking Air Cutter
Molds after about 36 hours. Again these are usually ready at
about two to three days. Main thing here is observe and take
notes on your first few pours. This will eliminate mistakes.
3. Smaller pours require less cure time. Many
factors affect curing time. These range from, but are not
restricted to; environmental surroundings, humidity, air
temperature, insulation method and your soap recipe.
4. You may test your soap by pushing on the top
center of the pour. If it is spongy, it is not ready. If it is
firm, yet still soft, it is ready.
5. You can also test with a thermometer. Check
in the center about mid-way down from the top. It should be
ready when the temperature is below 90 degrees (F). After a
while you will know by the look and feel of your pour.
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